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Riding the Train!

It wasn’t hard riding cowboys, steely-eyed lawmen, or courageous cavalrymen riding to the rescue who ultimately conquered the Wild West. It was the locomotive. As steel rails began to crisscross the West, the days of Indians, outlaws, and even cowboys were numbered.

These days, the Indians are busy running casinos, the cowboys drive pickup trucks and ATVs, and the Cavalry rides in tanks. But the train lives on, as a link to times long gone. Few sounds in this world can tug at the heartstrings like the romantic wail of a train on its way west.

The first steam train brought passengers and supplies from Williams, Arizona to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon on September 17, 1901, and while rail travel has evolved greatly since then, the magic and romance of the trip remain.

The Railway revolutionized the canyon, sharing its natural wonder with the general public. In its heyday, Grand Canyon Railway - then a subsidiary of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway Company - had two scheduled arrivals per day at the South Rim, but as many as six special trains might also arrive at the Grand Canyon in one day.

 Notable passengers included President Theodore Roosevelt, President William Howard Taft, John Muir, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, King Paul and Queen Fredericka of Greece, President Dwight David Eisenhower, actors Clark Gable, Candice Bergen, Jimmy Durante, and Doris Day.

 The train was the preferred method of travel to the Grand Canyon until the advent of the automobile. As Americans fell in love with their cars, the locomotive's romantic wail faded into Western history. On June 30, 1968, a diesel locomotive pulling only one baggage car and one coach car left the Grand Canyon Depot with just three people aboard. As this last passenger train traveled out of sight, the tracks grew quiet and stayed that way for nearly 20 years.

In the late 1980s there was a spurt of interest in reviving the historic railway as various investors came and went, but none of them could secure the financing needed to make their dreams a reality.

It wasn't until a determined crop duster named Max Biegert and his wife, Thelma, entered the scene that the old railroad line had a chance of coming back to life. Reaching deep into their pockets, and tapping all the resources available to them, the Biegerts dedicated everything, including an initial $15 million investment, to reinstate train service to the Grand Canyon.

 Pulling together a talented team of people, including steam locomotive experts, the Biegerts went to work restoring the dilapidated Williams and Grand Canyon train depots, as well as the 65 miles of weather-beaten railroad track. The team rebuilt washout areas and bridges, and replaced 30,000 railroad ties, and countless more rails, beams and spikes, to make the railroad line usable again.

 Their hard work paid off, when on September 17, 1989, 88 years to the day from when the first train left for the Grand Canyon, another steam locomotive returned to Grand Canyon National Park.

 The Grand Canyon Railway gained momentum with each trip to the canyon, growing into the operation it is today. Providing daily service and transporting more than 225,000 passengers to the Grand Canyon each year (more than 2.5 million since 1989), the Railway is much more than an alternative mode of transportation. The simple act of returning train service restored an integral part of the Grand Canyon's history.

Besides being a wonderful experience for passengers, and a tourism boost to Williams, Arizona, the Grand Canyon Railway also reduces automobile traffic and the resulting pollution, by at least ten percent at the canyon, helping to preserve this valuable geological wander for future generations.

In 2008, Xanterra Parks & Resorts, which operates Grand Canyon Railway, discontinued the use of the steam locomotives on the Grand Canyon Railway. These days, diesel locomotives are used year-round, resulting in a cleaner, more efficient means of train transportation to the Grand Canyon. This change is a direct reflection of Xanterra’s unyielding commitment to the environment.

We took a trip back in time recently when we rode the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams, to the Grand Canyon, and it is an experience we will never forget.

We spent the night before our trip at the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park, a short walk from the depot in Williams. The campground has both pull-thru and back-in full hookup sites, a laundry room, clean showers and restrooms, volleyball and basketball courts, as well as horseshoe pits, and a playground for children. The campground also has a full-service convenience store.

The small community of Williams, Arizona has a long and interesting history. The town was named for trapper Bill Williams, who explored the region in the early 1800s and was a contemporary to other famous explorers and mountain men like Jim Bridger and Kit Carson.

Strategically located on the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, Williams was also a supply and trade center for the cattle and sheep ranches that sprang up around the area. This was the town’s wild and wooly period, and the railroad construction workers, cowboys, and outlaws came here to party. Gamblers and prostitutes and were drawn to all of the activity as well. Today some of the old saloons and bordellos near the railroad tracks have come back to life as restaurants, galleries, and gift shops.

When the railroad line was built from Williams to the Grand Canyon, the town became known as the Gateway to the Grand Canyon. Historic Route 66 also brought visitors, and their money, to Williams, and the community was the last town in America to be bypassed when Interstate 40 was completed across northern Arizona.

After watching a shootout between costumed outlaws and the local sheriff at the depot in Williams, we boarded the First Class Coconino passenger car, and the train pulled out at 9:30 a.m. 

Our car had a second level glass dome compartment where passengers could get a bird’s eye view of the world passing by. They even had a complimentary continental breakfast, and each car had a hostess to attend to our every need. How cool is that? I like traveling First Class!

The train traveled at a leisurely pace, covering the 65 mile trip to the Grand Canyon in just over two hours. Each passenger car has bathrooms, comfortable seats, and the view out the window was constantly changing as we crossed through open plateaus and thick Ponderosa pine forests.

Complimentary copies of the Railway's own Territorial Times newspaper were provided during the trip north, and they were filled with information on the Grand Canyon and the Grand Canyon Railway. Cocktails can be purchased in First Class, Deluxe Observation Class, and in the Luxury Parlor Class. These classes of service also enjoy complimentary pastries, fruit, coffee, tea and fresh juice during the northbound journey, and a variety of cheeses, vegetables and soda on the southbound journey. Deluxe Observation Dome and Luxury Parlor classes are also provided with a champagne toast on the southbound trip.

While we were riding up to the Grand Canyon, Navajo musician Clarence Clearwater entertained us with songs and jokes, and told us a little about his life and culture. Our hostess on the ride north was a delightful lady named Mimi, who made sure everybody was comfortable and having a good time. Mimi spent time with every passenger, advising us on things to see and do once we arrived at the canyon, as well as the dining opportunities available there.

Constructed in 1909-1910, the two story log and wood frame Grand Canyon Depot is part of the Grand Canyon National Park Historic District, and is a National Historic Landmark. Originally, the downstairs was used for station facilities, and the upstairs was living quarters for the station agent's family. The building is one of approximately fourteen log depots known to have been constructed in the United States, and one of only three remaining. Of the three, the Grand Canyon Depot is the only one which still serves an operating railroad.

We had just over three hours to explore the Grand Canyon, although it would take at last a year to experience all of the beauty and adventure this spectacular place has to offer.

The train left the Grand Canyon Depot at 3:30 p.m. for our return trip to Williams, but the First Class pampering and adventure was not over. We were treated to a vegetable tray, cheese and crackers, sodas, and cocktails were also available on the trip south.

And then we got robbed! Somebody looked out a window and noticed two outlaws racing along beside the train on their horses, and soon they boarded and went from car to car, telling more jokes than stealing any loot.

The scofflaws had hardly moved on to plunder the next passenger car when the local Sheriff showed up in hot pursuit. But, he had to stop and tell a joke or two of his own first, of course! It was all part of the act, and only added to the fun.

We arrived back at the depot in Williams about 5:30 p.m., worn out from our long day of playing tourist, but thrilled with all we had seen and done. Riding the train to the Grand Canyon is something that everybody has to experience at least once in their lives. I’m already looking forward to going back again!

The Grand Canyon Railway operates every day of the year, except December 24 and 25, offering four classes of travel to and from the Grand Canyon. Besides the RV park, Grand Canyon Railway also has a spacious hotel in Williams, located next to the train depot. Facilities at the Williams depot include a gift shop, a Java Crossing coffee stand, rest room facilities, ticket counter and the Grand Depot Cafe restaurant. An outdoor display of a Grand Canyon Railway steam locomotive and caboose also can be viewed at the depot.

For those with pets, who prefer not to leave them alone when riding the train or exploring historic downtown Williams, Grand Canyon Railway's Pet Resort offers safe, loving care while their owners are away.

For more information on the Grand Canyon Railway, or to book your own adventure to the Grand Canyon, call 1-800-THE-TRAIN (1-800-843-8724) or visit their website at www.thetrain.com. But be forewarned, if you’re like me, you’ll enjoy your railway adventure so much that one trip will get you hooked!

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Heart Attack Grill

Imagine a restaurant where the food is great, but the fun is even better. Imagine a restaurant where they serve only high calorie, high cholesterol food, and where words like diet and eating healthy are discouraged. Imagine a restaurant where the actually reward you for tipping the scales on the high side. Welcome to the Heart Attack Grill!

When I first heard about this unique dining establishment in Chandler, Arizona, I made a mental note to myself to include it in our trip itinerary someday. It took us a year or two to get there, but I’m sure glad we did!

This ain’t your granddaddy’s McDonald’s, baby! You know you’re not in your typical fast food joint when you pull up outside and see the ambulance parked in the driveway. But don’t be alarmed, nobody has checked out yet, it’s just part of the ambience.

Inside, we were greeted by pretty “nurses” in not too revealing uniforms, who immediately helped us into our hospital gowns, and then we took out seats at the country and perused the menu. 

The choices here are limited to hamburgers, bigger hamburgers, and really big hamburgers! Add a bottomless order of their Flatliner Fries, which signs proudly proclaim are cooked in “pure lard” and a cold bottle of soda, and you’re good to go. If you can consume the massive Quadruple Bypass burger, with all the trimmings, a nurse will be happy to wheel you out to your car in a wheelchair!

Our food was delicious, and I’ll admit to going back to the French fry bar for a second helping of those Flatliner Fries. As we ate, we admired the décor, which is best described as Early American Emergency Room.

I must have looked a bit peaked, because the “doctor” on duty came out from behind the fry grill and, with the help of another pretty “nurse,” checked me out just to be sure I was in shape for the trip home.

The fun doesn’t stop there. The restaurant has it’s own blood pressure monitors, saving gluon from a trip to the WalMart pharmacy to see how much damage your meal has done to you, and if you feel up to the challenge, step on the scales for the official “weighing in.” If you weigh over 350 pounds, congratulations; you get to eat free all day, any day!

Sure, it’s not a place where any of us could eat every day, and I’m sure my doctor would be grinding his teeth id he read this, but what the heck. Everybody deserves a walk on the gastrological al wild side once in a while!

The Heart attach Grill is located at 6185 W. Chandler Boulevard, and is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Give it a try, your arteries need the challenge!     

 

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