Sleeping Bear Dunes

Sleeping Bear Dunes
A masterpiece of ice, wind, and water

The northwestern shore of Michigan’s lower peninsula is home to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a marvelously diverse land of massive sand dunes, clear lakes, streams, dense maple forests, and high bluffs overlooking Lake Michigan’s shoreline. Carved by glacier action and sculpted by eons of wind and water, Sleeping Bear Dunes is a natural wonderland guaranteed to delight young and old alike.

Thousands of visitors come to the Dunes every year to hike the trails, comb the beach for interesting shells and pebbles, fish, canoe, and attempt the intimidating Dune Climb. For those who prefer more sedate adventures, the spectacular views of dune, lake, and shoreline are favorites of artists and photographers, and those who enjoy just sitting and pondering nature’s splendor. For those not content with all the mainland Dunes have to offer, a ferry ride to the Manitou Islands offers the chance to explore lighthouses, shipwreck history, and even more natural beauty.

Indian legend says the Dunes were created centuries ago when a mother bear and her two cubs were driven into Lake Michigan’s water by a huge forest fire in what we now call Wisconsin. The bruins swam for their lives, but eventually the great water became too much for the cubs, and they could not keep up with their mother. Eventually mother bear reached the far shore, where she climbed to the top of a bluff to watch for her cubs. Her wait was to be in vain, the cubs had drowned within sight of shore. The grieving mother bear refused to leave her lookout on the shoreline, and eventually her body became the massive Sleeping Bear Dune. The unfortunate cubs became North and South Manitou Island.

In more recent time, analyzing fossils and studying the geology of the area, scientists tell us that the area was once covered by a shallow sea. Dramatic glaciers, landslides, and the forces of wind and water over time have worked to create the imposing dunes we see today.

A Michigan lumberman named Pierce Stocking, who had spent his youth exploring the wild coastline along this area, recognized the unique beauty the Dunes had to offer and worked for years to preserve the natural wonderland for future generations to enjoy. Today the 7.4 mile long Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive is the best way to experience Sleeping Bear Dunes. Visitors can travel the loop drive, pausing at frequent pullouts to take in the views, or hike or ride their bicycles along the route. The road has some steep inclines, so be sure you are in good physical shape before setting out on foot or with a bike. For those traveling the loop in a vehicle, be aware that it is not suited for large RVs, and parking is limited for oversize vehicles. There are no pull-through parking spaces, and trailers are not permitted on the Drive.

The first stop on the Scenic Drive is a covered bridge. The sides of the original bridge were destroyed by porcupines, and when it was rebuilt the roof was raised to 13' 6" to provide vehicle clearance. A pullout is provided at the bridge.

Glen Lake, your next stop along the Drive, is famous for its remarkably blue water. At one time the lake was connected to Lake Michigan, but over time a sandbar built up separating the bodies of water. Photographers love stopping at the Glen Lake pullout to record the scene on film.

The Dune Overlook is another favorite with artists and photographers, offering a panoramic view that encompasses many of the major landmarks of the area, including Pyramid Point, Sleeping Bear Dunes, Glen Lake, and the Manitou Islands. Visitors are asked to refrain from walking on the fragile dune environment here, which can be easily harmed. Don’t worry, there are plenty of opportunities to exercise just ahead.

At Cottonwood Trail, another popular stop, you can take a 1.5 mile hike along the dunes. Though strenuous in places, the trail gives you a close look at the natural beauty and diversity of the area. In places, wind erosion has scooped out bowl-shaped depressions known as blowouts, while in other spots along the trail, blowing sand has partially covered living trees. Be careful to stay on the trails, and be wary of poison ivy, a common plant in this region.

The Drive leaves the dune area to take you through a dense mixed beech and maple forest, a startling contrast from the open, sunny dunes. Keep your eyes open here, and you might spot a squirrel, deer, or one of the other animals that call this place home.

Leaving the forest, you come to the Lake Michigan Overlook, perhaps the most popular spot along the Scenic Drive. Perched 450 feet above the water, the overlook offers decks to view and photograph the beauty that surrounds you. Look below and you will spot the tiny shapes of people playing along the water’s edge, and struggling back up toward the top of the near vertical dune. (Warning: This is an extremely difficult climb. DO NOT attempt it unless you are in top physical condition.)

This is a constantly changing landscape, as the forces of wind and erosion continue to shape the dunes. Though the changes are usually subtle and take place over time, it is not unknown for landslides and storms to dramatically change the face of the shoreline. In February, 1999, a 1,600 foot stretch of popular beach disappeared underwater in a huge landslide. Even man cannot change nature’s force; this became evident in 1931, when Coast Guard buildings located at Sleeping Bear Point had to be moved to Glen Haven to keep them from becoming covered with blowing sand.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offers many recreational opportunities. Hiking and biking are always popular, and the waters offer great fishing opportunities There are two campgrounds, Platte River and D.H. Day, open from spring through fall. Ferries from Leland take visitors to North and South Manitou Islands, where even more hiking and sightseeing opportunities await. South Manitou Island Lighthouse was erected in 1871 to guide ships safely into the island’s harbor, but the fierce storms of Lake Michigan were not to be denied, and many ships still ran aground in the area. Visitors can see the freighter Francisco Morazan on South Manitou’s southern shore. The lifesaving stations at Glen Haven and South Manitou are reminders of the days when rescue crews launched small wooden boats in the face of Lake Michigan’s fierce storms to rescue shipwreck survivors.

A great way to begin your visit to Sleeping Bear Dunes is at the Visitor Center in Empire, where you can tour a small museum with displays on the area’s geology, history, and natural wonders, view an excellent slide show about the Dunes, and browse regional books and souvenirs in a small gift shop. The rear lot of the Visitor Center can accommodate a large RV, but be aware that it has only one entrance/exit. Swing wide to the right going in and park toward the rear to allow yourself room to maneuver getting back out.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore may not be as well known as some other National Park Service sites, but once you visit, it will be hard to forget the dramatic beauty of this unique shoreline.